Another great weekend in Savannah.
29.10.2010 - 31.10.2010
Savannah has won me over. When a quick weekend trip is needed, she's at the top of my list....luring me in with the sweet smell of golden honey and the crispy taste of golden fried shrimp. This was a quick weekend, but it managed to deliver all that I have come to expect from Savannah's southern hospitality. It was Halloween weekend, so where better to spend it than in one of America's most haunted cities?
We have learned to arrive on Friday. By leaving early, we arrive just in time for Mrs. Wilkes' lunch line, which is important, because Mrs. Wilkes' is only open for lunch and it's only open on weekdays. We have also learned to stay at the Zeigler House...a perfect place, in my opinion, due to the gorgeous rooms, perfect location, great food, and phenomenal hostess, Jackie. It doesn't hurt that it's only a few steps down the street from Mrs. Wilkes'.
We had our $16 in cash (Mrs. Wilkes' doesn't take credit cards) and did our time in line. It was so worth it. Platters of fried chicken and hot biscuits were placed on the table in front of us along with about 25 bowls of indescribably delicious country sides. We washed it down with cold glasses of iced tea and topped it off with banana pudding. Mrs. Wilkes' Boarding House is the perfect start to a gastronomical weekend in Savannah!
We walked the food off with a shopping tour of historic Savannah. We sampled golden sweet honey at Savannah Bee Company and breathed in the scent of handmade lavendar soap in the Paris Market. We lingered over sweet smelling azaleas in the squares and listened to the clip-clopping hooves of the horses as they pulled carriages down the cobbled streets. Matt hid away in the "man cave" in Fab'rik as I browsed racks of trendy clothing.
We made sure we got back to Zeigler House in time for Jackie's evening reception. Delicious treats and wine were waiting for us. We snacked and sipped on the wide breezy porch before heading in for naps.
Still full from lunch and Jackie's amazing appetizers, we decided to head to the Crystal Beer Parlor for drinks instead of dinner. The parlor has been around for ages and you can feel it as soon as you walk inside. It's like taking a step back in time when you slide up on a barstool at the polished wood bar.
After martinis and warm conversation, we walked down toward River Street to meet up with a our "Haunted Pub Tour." What better way to see ghosts than when you are drinking?
This tour should more appropriately be called, "How to get tanked in Savannah in 2 hours," but it was fun. Our Civil War Soldier guide took us through several old haunts and after a drink in each one, I was pretty sure I was seeing SOMETHING.
After the tour, we hit Vinnie Van Go Go's for a slice of the most amazing pizza before running home in the dark, hoping the ghosts weren't following us.
The next morning, we slept late and then enjoyed the delicious baked breakfast goods that Jackie delivers to your room at the Zeigler House. A couple of scones and homemade muffins later, we took a slow walk down to Forsyth Park.
Before heading back, we stopped for a coffee at the Sentient Bean. This place may not have 2 cups that match, but the coffee is awesome and they have a kickin' patio hidden in the back.
In the mood for some seafood, we headed out to find the elusive Despositos Seafood.
It's a little off the beaten path, and fancy pants it is not, but Despositios is worth finding. With simple wooden tables covered in newspaper and a menu that includes only a few selections of steamed seafood (nothing fried here), what you do find is incredibly fresh, incredibly delicious seafood.
We ordered nearly everything on the menu....crab legs, oysters, steamed shrimp....and a shrimp salad sandwich that is served old school style on thick slices of toast with Despositos own home made cocktail sauce with a KICK.
And don't forget the key lime pie. It's home made and it is G-O-O-D.
We drove on over to Tybee Island for a post-lunch beach walk.
The boys hit Bernie's for some raw oysters...apparently the feeding frenzy at Despositos had not been enough to satiate their hunger. They decided to get a bucket of "shuck your own" and watching them nearly made me sweat. It was like a lesson in endurance....the motto of the restaurant was "Shuck me, suck me, eat me raw..." but after watching them battle those oysters it should have been..."Smash me, dash me, then ask for a hammer...."
Eventually they got through the bucket and we wandered the wide sand beach, looking for tiny shells and watching the sandpipers scurry along the edge of the seafoam, looking for something the ocean left behind.
We made it back in time for the reception at Zeigler House and let Jackie do it to us again. We got too full for dinner. We had reservations at Local 11 Ten but had to cancel them, because our stomachs were stretched beyond belief, and nothing else could fit inside.
It was Saturday night and Savannah was celebrating Halloween. We donned minimal costumes and hit the streets. All I can say is that Savannah takes her Halloween quite seriously. We saw things I can never describe. To celebrate the night, we caught a live performance of the Rocky Horror Picture Show, which was out of this world. That was followed by drinks and unbelievable people watching in City Market.
Finally hungry again, we hit the only thing still open....Five Guys Burgers and Fries and found that there is no place quite like a burger joint in Savannah at 2 a.m. on Halloween night.
Too quickly it was Sunday and almost time to go home. We enjoyed a seafood lunch at Tubby's, with crispy fried shrimp and hush puppies, and before we knew it, it was time to leave.
Savannah had shown us a good time again. I don't think it will be too long before we head back. If for nothing else, to enjoy the city that lets us eat 6 times a day.